Inc. Magazine: Unionwear Didn’t Expect Harris-Walz Camo Hats to Go Viral. Then It Sold 25,000 of Them in 24 Hours

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Mitch Cahn was prepared for a slow summer.

The political scene, after all, was not particularly advantageous for the founder of a company that typically gets steady–albeit cyclical–sales from political campaigns looking for made-in-the-USA merch. The incumbent was inert. President Biden “sold virtually no merchandise this year,” he says. “Normally, we would have seen sales beginning in April or May for the general election. We did not see that at all.”

But when Biden dropped his bid for reelection on July 21 and endorsed Vice President Kamala Harris, the game changed. And when Harris announced Minnesota governor Tim Walz as her running mate on August 6, the tide turned entirely. Within 24 hours, the Harris-Walz campaign sold about 25,000 of the $40 camouflage baseball caps manufactured by Cahn’s Newark, New Jersey-based business, Unionwear, the entrepreneur says.

Source: https://www.inc.com/rebecca-deczynski/unionwear-didnt-expect-harris-walz-camo-hats-to-go-viral-then-it-sold-25000-in-24-hours.html

by By , Staff editor, Inc. Aug 7, 2024

Cahn’s company, which he founded in 1992 after purchasing the assets of a bankrupt baseball cap factory, has manufactured political merchandise since its inception. In its founding year, it made 150 caps for the Clinton-Gore ticket, but that line of business didn’t really take off until 2000, when Unionwear nabbed a significant order from the Gore-Lieberman campaign. “The internet made it possible for campaigns to actually sell merchandise,” Cahn says. 

Since then, Unionwear–which employs about 180 workers represented by SEIU in its 70,000-square-foot facility–has manufactured merchandise for a number of presidential campaigns, including Obama-Biden, Clinton-Kaine, Trump-Pence, and Biden-Harris.

In recent years, Cahn says that his company has received increased orders for senatorial and gubernatorial races. “Campaigns are raising much more money than they used to, and they have fewer places to spend it because there are a lot of bans on political advertising on social media,” he says. “So that money’s got to go somewhere. And I think that merch is one of the places the money ends up.”

Aside from political campaigns, Unionwear gets significant orders from labor unions. In its early years, the company–then called New Jersey Headwear Corp.–secured deals with fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, but Cahn says that the passage of NAFTA in 1994 pushed a lot of hat manufacturing overseas. 

Many political candidates, however, still see value in selling merch that’s both union-made and manufactured in the United States. Cahn says that Unionwear sees more sales from Democrats, but the company ultimately takes a bipartisan approach to business. “Unions traditionally voted Democrat so they have had to really play that up and make sure all of their merchandise was union-made,” he says. “Whereas Republicans did not specifically request union-made merchandise, although we are seeing that for the first time this year.”

Unionwear is not currently manufacturing any merch for the Trump-Vance campaign, though the company did make merch for the 2016 Trump campaign. Cahn estimates that “tens of thousands of vendors and embroidery shops” have manufactured former president Trump’s “Make America Great Again” hat since then. “The Trump campaign has allowed people to do whatever they want to get the logo and the color out there,” he says.

Unionwear doesn’t mix politics with business. “If we were a restaurant, no one would ask me if we allowed both Democrats and Republicans to eat here,” Cahn says. “We can’t discriminate against anyone who wants to buy merchandise.”

And this time around, supporters of the Harris-Walz ticket really want to buy merch.

After the June 27 debate between Biden and Trump, Cahn had an inkling that the former would eventually step down from the Democratic ticket. “That’s when we started to prepare for a potential surge in orders,” he says. The company shifted some of its production deadlines from September to October to free up capacity and made thousands of baseball caps that were ready to be embroidered; if necessary, the company could outsource that part of production to other embroidery shops to accommodate a surge.

After Biden dropped out of the race on July 21, Unionwear saw an influx of orders from merchandise houses that were working with the Harris campaign. “The Tuesday after Biden dropped out, we received a very large number of orders from people who had tested [merch] on Monday, and saw sales of Kamala merchandise exceed their expectations,” Cahn says. “That’s when they said, ‘Get ready for when the ticket is announced because that is when we’re really going to do our big push.’ We got ready.”

For a typical presidential campaign year, Unionwear anticipates selling 2,000 hats a day–a rate that Cahn says Harris has surpassed. Sales of Harris-Walz merchandise have outpaced projections, he adds, but the real viral hit is the campaign’s camouflage hat, with the running mates’ names inscribed in orange.

“We were not anticipating a camouflage hat,” Cahn says. “I don’t know if they were either.” The design isn’t unfamiliar to Unionwear–the company has manufactured similar hats for hunting organizations and labor unions–but it captures a diverse demographic. The design is a play on traditional hunting gear, but for those in the know, it’s also a reference to a similar hat currently sold by the 26-year-old Missouri native popstar Chappell Roan, who has skyrocketed in popularity in recent months and, this weekend, drew the largest crowd in Lollapalooza history, a spokesperson for the music festival told CNN.

After seeing Walz in a camouflage hat on Tuesday–in the video Harris posted of the governor accepting his position as her running mate–the Harris-Walz campaign design team conceptualized the camo hat by around noon that day and developed prototypes by 1:30 p.m., Fast Company reported.

Cahn says that Unionwear messengered a camouflage Harris-Walz hat to Philadelphia–ostensibly the one that Walz himself was photographed wearing Tuesday evening–and the company prepared samples to be shot for the campaign’s website. Since Tuesday, several others, including Walz’s daughter Hope, and members of the band Bon Iver, which performed at the Harris-Walz Wisconsin rally Wednesday, have sported the design.

The hat’s original run of 3,000 hats sold out in 30 minutes, according to the campaign, and now the product is currently on preorder, with an expected ship date of October 14. In spite of the wait time, customers are still placing orders.

“My head is spinning, because I had had the realization that this was going to be the first time we were going to have a nice, relaxing summer. Then, Kamala entered the race, and her merch sales have really exceeded [those of] anyone else who’s sold merch for a presidential campaign before in such a short time,” Cahn says. “It’s been a remarkable turnaround, and everybody at our factory is excited about this.”